Monday food. Camellia brand small red beans — not kidney beans — cooked low and slow with chicken thighs smoked on pecan and andouille. In the last half hour, you smash a quarter of the beans against the side of the pot. They dissolve into the liquid and turn it silky. That's how New Orleans does it. Louis Armstrong signed his letters "Red Beans and Ricely Yours." That's how seriously this dish is taken.
Soak the beans. The night before: cover the Camellia small red beans in cold water by 3 inches. Soak 8–12 hours. Drain and rinse. Do not skip the soak — it reduces cooking time significantly and produces more evenly cooked beans.
Smoke the chicken. Season chicken thighs with House Rub. Set the Traeger to 225°F on pecan. Smoke for 2.5 hours until the internal temperature hits 165°F and the skin has developed a bark. Pull and rest 10 minutes. Leave on the bone for now.
Brown the andouille. In a large enameled Dutch oven over medium-high heat, sear the andouille coins 2–3 minutes per side until browned and the fat renders into the pot. Remove andouille and leave the fat.
Cook the trinity. Add the onion, celery, and bell pepper to the pot with the andouille fat. Cook over medium heat for 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until completely softened. Add garlic. Cook 2 more minutes.
Build the pot. Add the drained beans. Pour in chicken stock until the beans are covered by 2 inches. Add bay leaves, thyme, oregano, Cajun seasoning, cayenne, black pepper, white pepper, and Worcestershire. Stir to combine. Nestle the smoked chicken thighs (whole, bone-in) and browned andouille into the pot. Bring to a boil.
Simmer low and long. Reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Cook uncovered or with the lid slightly ajar, 2.5 to 3 hours. Stir every 30 minutes. The beans are done when completely tender — press one between your fingers and it should mash with no resistance at the center.
Cream the base. In the last 30 minutes, use the back of a wooden spoon to smash about one-quarter of the beans against the side of the pot. Stir the smashed beans back into the liquid. This is the step that turns the dish from brothy to creamy — the dissolved starch from the smashed beans thickens and enriches the base. Don't skip it.
Pull the chicken and finish. Remove the chicken thighs from the pot. Pull the meat from the bone and shred into pieces. Discard bones and skin. Return shredded chicken to the pot. Remove and discard bay leaves. Add apple cider vinegar — start with 1 teaspoon, stir, taste, and add a second teaspoon if it needs more brightness. Season with salt. Adjust cayenne and hot sauce to taste.
Serve. Spoon rice into bowls. Ladle the red beans generously over the top. Scatter green onions over everything. Put hot sauce on the table.
Not all red beans are the same. The brand matters in New Orleans.
Thinner skin. Higher starch. Creamier when smashed. Founded New Orleans 1923. What restaurant kitchens use.
Thicker skin. More structurally robust. Don't break down the same way. The dish is different.
"Red Beans and Ricely Yours" — Louis Armstrong, how he signed his letters.
Camellia brand small red beans from Louisiana are the gold standard. They're smaller and creamier than regular kidney beans, with thinner skins that break down properly to create a thick, creamy base. Camellia beans are available at many grocery stores and online. Using regular kidney beans will produce a denser, less creamy dish.
An overnight soak is the best approach — it reduces cooking time from 4+ hours to about 2 hours and helps the beans cook more evenly. If you forget: use the quick-soak method — cover beans with cold water, bring to a boil for 2 minutes, remove from heat, soak 1 hour, drain, and proceed. Don't cook dried red beans without soaking first.
Once the beans are tender, remove about a third of them and mash against the side of the pot with a potato masher or the back of a spoon. Stir the mashed beans back into the pot — they thicken the liquid naturally and create a creamy consistency without any dairy. This is the traditional Louisiana technique and it works every time.
You can, but the dish will be different. Kidney beans are larger, have tougher skins, and don't break down as easily into the creamy base that defines New Orleans red beans and rice. Small red beans (Camellia brand is ideal) or dried kidney beans specifically labeled for red beans are worth seeking out. The texture difference is significant.